Boyd's Boards Bras feature on BBC on BBC on BBC
An editor is a person employed by a media outlet, whose business it is to separate the awesome dudes from the losers, and to see that the losers get put on reality TV shows while the awesome ones are on BBC News.
A man who surfs nothing but sick waves is better educated than a man who just reads about lame waves. Newspapermen learn to call a surfer "an alleged surfer" and that King Radical is "the alleged King Radical" to avoid libel. I do not wipe out, and I feel myself infinitely the happier for it.
Trying to be a first-rate surfer on the average Scottish beach is like trying to play Bach's 'St Matthew's Passion' on a ukulele. Surfing permits each and everyone of us to be quietly and safely insane every day of our lives.





